Let's Talk BBQ
FORUM SPONSORS => MAK Grills => Topic started by: rwalters on August 30, 2018, 02:14:22 PM
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Howdy fellow MAK owners! Bought my 2 Star, March of 2017. I absolutely love it! I realize that there is no such thing as “the perfect cooker”, but I am wondering about one of the few things that nag at me about this specific pellet cooker. I am pretty picky about keeping the exterior of a $3k+ purchase clean and tidy. Wondering how many of you experience grease leaking from the rear of your cooker, where the lid meets the base? I always have a damp rag with me when I cook and simply wipe as it drips... but if there is an easy way to seal it up I would love to know how. Anyone experience this and have a solution. Thinking RTV may be tough to apply because of how much grease has worked it’s way into that small opening over the past 1.5 years of use. Any recommendations? Just suck it up and deal with it, or ??
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/6c8d0e2567ef128cb80da7f5e080a63e.jpg)
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I have had a similar "leak" at the rear, but it was coming out the vents. This seems to happen when grilling with the FZ uncovered and cooking "fatty" foods like chicken thighs. I've also noticed that the grease "splatters" also drip from the inside of the front door onto the little area between the hopper and the body of the smoker as well as on the other side with the warmer box. Fortunately I use a heavy duty mat under the MAK, so really it is just wiping off the drips.
I'm not sure that I would seek to do any sealing versus just cleaning/wiping it off right after a cook that produces this. Low and slow does not seem to create this problem and most of my cooks are indirect at 275 or below. Of course, MAK could design some sort of baffle to deflect the grease splatter into the grease trough - that would be ideal!
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I have had a similar "leak" at the rear, but it was coming out the vents. This seems to happen when grilling with the FZ uncovered and cooking "fatty" foods like chicken thighs. I've also noticed that the grease "splatters" also drip from the inside of the front door onto the little area between the hopper and the body of the smoker as well as on the other side with the warmer box. Fortunately I use a heavy duty mat under the MAK, so really it is just wiping off the drips.
I'm not sure that I would seek to do any sealing versus just cleaning/wiping it off right after a cook that produces this. Low and slow does not seem to create this problem and most of my cooks are indirect at 275 or below. Of course, MAK could design some sort of baffle to deflect the grease splatter into the grease trough - that would be ideal!
Yep, my experience mirrors yours. The only leak I would really like to resolve if possible is the one in the pic. The stainless is super easy to clean after a cook, especially with a good cleaner while the grill is still warm to the touch. This leak is definitely a first world problem... which are the worst ;)
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When cooking fatty things such as pork shoulders, etc. grease atomizes and goes EVERYWHERE! It's just the nature of the beast. If the grease works its way in between the lid and body, then it starts to wick it. The only thing to do is a thorough cleaning and get as much of the grease out of those layers as possible.
After a thorough cleaning, I don't see why you couldn't seal the inside of the seam with some high temp sealer if you wanted. I've used it in other grills/smokers without issue.
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Mine has not done that. I don't mind the "used greasy" look on my grills. Years ago all I did was clean em and clean em and finally realized I got other things to do.
Sure like Cliffs idea on the silicone...………………..
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Mine has not done that. I don't mind the "used greasy" look on my grills. Years ago all I did was clean em and clean em and finally realized I got other things to do.
Sure like Cliffs idea on the silicone...………………..
When cooking fatty things such as pork shoulders, etc. grease atomizes and goes EVERYWHERE! It's just the nature of the beast. If the grease works its way in between the lid and body, then it starts to wick it. The only thing to do is a thorough cleaning and get as much of the grease out of those layers as possible.
Cliff- I am sure you are correct... can't think of any other way to plug the leak than to thoroughly clean and apply a bead of RTV. Perhaps I will have time to give it a try this weekend.
Smoke- I hear ya! I used to be WAY pickier about keeping my cookers clean. But an expensive 304 SS cooking chamber... man, I am all about keeping that nice and clean. It only takes a few minutes after each cook to give it a complete wipe down :)
After a thorough cleaning, I don't see why you couldn't seal the inside of the seam with some high temp sealer if you wanted. I've used it in other grills/smokers without issue.
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I like Cliffs idea. Take it apart,clean it and apply this stuff when you reassemble. squeeze it together and you should have a good seal.
A little time and $8 bucks....
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=asc_df_B07CJQHX73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941221516&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7849062494501606593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012934&hvtargid=pla-448747996931&psc=1
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I like Cliffs idea. Take it apart,clean it and apply this stuff when you reassemble. squeeze it together and you should have a good seal.
A little time and $8 bucks....
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=asc_df_B07CJQHX73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941221516&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7849062494501606593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012934&hvtargid=pla-448747996931&psc=1
The only problem as I see it with the MAK is that we are dealing with SS rivets. I do not want to break and replace the rivets. For me, it would be more of "clean and try to insert as much as you can into the slit." lol!
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I like Cliffs idea. Take it apart,clean it and apply this stuff when you reassemble. squeeze it together and you should have a good seal.
A little time and $8 bucks....
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=asc_df_B07CJQHX73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941221516&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7849062494501606593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012934&hvtargid=pla-448747996931&psc=1
The only problem as I see it with the MAK is that we are dealing with SS rivets. I do not want to break and replace the rivets. For me, it would be more of "clean and try to insert as much as you can into the slit." lol!
I agree. I could not tell in the picture it was rivets ...
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When cooking fatty things such as pork shoulders, etc. grease atomizes and goes EVERYWHERE! It's just the nature of the beast. If the grease works its way in between the lid and body, then it starts to wick it. The only thing to do is a thorough cleaning and get as much of the grease out of those layers as possible.
After a thorough cleaning, I don't see why you couldn't seal the inside of the seam with some high temp sealer if you wanted. I've used it in other grills/smokers without issue.
I got to thinking about this (too much time on my hands! :-). I wondered why I do not see the same issue with my Weber Summit gasser. I have certainly have grilled many a fatty food on it over the last 10 years and it has never had this kind of issue. Design wise, it does not have a vertical seam on the sides or rear of the cooking chamber. It also does not have rear vents, which on the MAK I imagine are integral to the smoke flow the MAK needs by its design. The Weber does have two large openings on either side for the rotisserie.
The hood/door is similar to the MAK, that is it opens over/around the rear, fixed section of the cooking chamber. However, the sides of the fixed section are higher and extend much closer to the front.
Nothing profound here, but I do think MAK might consider a design change for the future that includes some sort of grease splash guard for the vertical seams and vents. Obviously it will not eliminate splatter, but could significantly reduce the leaks from these unexpected places. Just my 2 cents.
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What does the inside of the seam look like?
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I like Cliffs idea. Take it apart,clean it and apply this stuff when you reassemble. squeeze it together and you should have a good seal.
A little time and $8 bucks....
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=asc_df_B07CJQHX73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941221516&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7849062494501606593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012934&hvtargid=pla-448747996931&psc=1
I did this on old #48...IT WORKS....And, If you clean up the seam immediately after you set the hood, it is invisible.When cooking fatty things such as pork shoulders, etc. grease atomizes and goes EVERYWHERE! It's just the nature of the beast. If the grease works its way in between the lid and body, then it starts to wick it. The only thing to do is a thorough cleaning and get as much of the grease out of those layers as possible.
After a thorough cleaning, I don't see why you couldn't seal the inside of the seam with some high temp sealer if you wanted. I've used it in other grills/smokers without issue.
I got to thinking about this (too much time on my hands! :-). I wondered why I do not see the same issue with my Weber Summit gasser. I have certainly have grilled many a fatty food on it over the last 10 years and it has never had this kind of issue. Design wise, it does not have a vertical seam on the sides or rear of the cooking chamber. It also does not have rear vents, which on the MAK I imagine are integral to the smoke flow the MAK needs by its design. The Weber does have two large openings on either side for the rotisserie.
The hood/door is similar to the MAK, that is it opens over/around the rear, fixed section of the cooking chamber. However, the sides of the fixed section are higher and extend much closer to the front.
Nothing profound here, but I do think MAK might consider a design change for the future that includes some sort of grease splash guard for the vertical seams and vents. Obviously it will not eliminate splatter, but could significantly reduce the leaks from these unexpected places. Just my 2 cents.
Don't you mean horizontal seams? That is the one that runs around the pit parallel to the deck - connecting the hood to the belly.
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Oops! Yup, I did mean horizontal. :P
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I like Cliffs idea. Take it apart,clean it and apply this stuff when you reassemble. squeeze it together and you should have a good seal.
A little time and $8 bucks....
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Sealant-Silicone-Adhesive/dp/B07CJQHX73/ref=asc_df_B07CJQHX73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941221516&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7849062494501606593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012934&hvtargid=pla-448747996931&psc=1
I did this on old #48...IT WORKS....And, If you clean up the seam immediately after you set the hood, it is invisible.When cooking fatty things such as pork shoulders, etc. grease atomizes and goes EVERYWHERE! It's just the nature of the beast. If the grease works its way in between the lid and body, then it starts to wick it. The only thing to do is a thorough cleaning and get as much of the grease out of those layers as possible.
After a thorough cleaning, I don't see why you couldn't seal the inside of the seam with some high temp sealer if you wanted. I've used it in other grills/smokers without issue.
I got to thinking about this (too much time on my hands! :-). I wondered why I do not see the same issue with my Weber Summit gasser. I have certainly have grilled many a fatty food on it over the last 10 years and it has never had this kind of issue. Design wise, it does not have a vertical seam on the sides or rear of the cooking chamber. It also does not have rear vents, which on the MAK I imagine are integral to the smoke flow the MAK needs by its design. The Weber does have two large openings on either side for the rotisserie.
The hood/door is similar to the MAK, that is it opens over/around the rear, fixed section of the cooking chamber. However, the sides of the fixed section are higher and extend much closer to the front.
Nothing profound here, but I do think MAK might consider a design change for the future that includes some sort of grease splash guard for the vertical seams and vents. Obviously it will not eliminate splatter, but could significantly reduce the leaks from these unexpected places. Just my 2 cents.
Don't you mean horizontal seams? That is the one that runs around the pit parallel to the deck - connecting the hood to the belly.
Hey Tee- Are you saying that you tore out the rivets on #48, completely removing the hood from the base before applying a sealant? If yes, sounds like an absolute pain for someone that can hardly swing a hammer and turn a screw driver...lol.
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I did....
And the truth is - it was one of the easiest things you can do. You need a drill, and the right size drill bit. One that is the size of the hole in the MAK sheet metal - not as big as the rivet. Get several high quality drill bits of the right size - because you may break one or 2 in the process, or they make get dull because of the stainless....
Then replace them with small stainless screws, lock washers and nuts.
Not intimidating at all. Just place the grill up against a wall or something so that when you drill out the last rivet - the lid does not slip off and fall on the deck. You cam make it a little easier by removing the hood itself - there is a screw and stainless spacer on either side of the hood. They make up the hinge.
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I did....
And the truth is - it was one of the easiest things you can do. You need a drill, and the right size drill bit. One that is the size of the hole in the MAK sheet metal - not as big as the rivet. Get several high quality drill bits of the right size - because you may break one or 2 in the process, or they make get dull because of the stainless....
Then replace them with small stainless screws, lock washers and nuts.
Not intimidating at all. Just place the grill up against a wall or something so that when you drill out the last rivet - the lid does not slip off and fall on the deck. You cam make it a little easier by removing the hood itself - there is a screw and stainless spacer on either side of the hood. They make up the hinge.
Hmmmm, that doesn’t sound bad at all :)
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I did....
And the truth is - it was one of the easiest things you can do. You need a drill, and the right size drill bit. One that is the size of the hole in the MAK sheet metal - not as big as the rivet. Get several high quality drill bits of the right size - because you may break one or 2 in the process, or they make get dull because of the stainless....
Then replace them with small stainless screws, lock washers and nuts.
Not intimidating at all. Just place the grill up against a wall or something so that when you drill out the last rivet - the lid does not slip off and fall on the deck. You cam make it a little easier by removing the hood itself - there is a screw and stainless spacer on either side of the hood. They make up the hinge.
Hmmmm, that doesn’t sound bad at all :)
If you going to tear your grill apart I can come over and help ya. I'm pretty good with a drill.
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I did....
And the truth is - it was one of the easiest things you can do. You need a drill, and the right size drill bit. One that is the size of the hole in the MAK sheet metal - not as big as the rivet. Get several high quality drill bits of the right size - because you may break one or 2 in the process, or they make get dull because of the stainless....
Then replace them with small stainless screws, lock washers and nuts.
Not intimidating at all. Just place the grill up against a wall or something so that when you drill out the last rivet - the lid does not slip off and fall on the deck. You cam make it a little easier by removing the hood itself - there is a screw and stainless spacer on either side of the hood. They make up the hinge.
Hmmmm, that doesn’t sound bad at all :)
If you going to tear your grill apart I can come over and help ya. I'm pretty good with a drill.
Appreciate the offer Gus! I may just take you up on it :)
I actually spoke with Matt from MAK the other day just to get his feedback. He said he would see if there is something that he (MAK) can offer that would resolve the issue. Thinking I may wait to hear what he comes back with before tearing into my MAK, which to be honest, I’m not really to excited about. Stay tuned... ;)
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Wanting to give closure to this thread, I thought I’d give an update. After tolerating the grease leak for quite some time, I did reach out to MAK for help. After going back and forth a few times, it was decided that MAK would manufacture a new lid (back half) for me. The new lid has welded seams in the back corners and the lid was made for me to screw down vs the rivets that MAK currently uses. Made the changeover a couple of weeks ago, and not a drop has leaked since. Oh yeah, I also laid a bead of high temp RTV sealant before placing the lid on the grill.
Bottom line MAK came through, solved the issue and continues to have one VERY satisfied owner :)
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Good for you Robb. One again Mak shows great customer service.